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Footwear
Care
All footwear should be kept clean and dry when not on your feet. We
encourage you to follow the manufacturer's instructions however these are some
basic guidelines.
General Cleaning Instructions
Remove inners if you have them. Using a suitable cleaning agent (such as
Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel) clean under running water with a soft brush and
allow to dry naturally, but not in the sun: stuff them with newspaper and
put them somewhere warm, breezy and in the shade.
Full grain leather boots
For full grain leather boots Nikwax for Leather or Sno-seal are great choices
for waterproofing and conditioning. Reapplication of waterproofing
treatments should be done moderately but regularly, ideally after every 10-14
days of wear. Before applying any waterproofing it is essential that your
boots are clean and dry.
Seam sealing your leather boots with Freesole and running a bead around the
sole when the boots are new will help the waterproofing and durability of your
leather boots. Apply Freesole before any weather proofing is applied, and
only if you don't mind changing the appearance of your boots.
Nubuck leather boots
Treat with Nikwax Nubuck Treatment. Let them dry for 12 hrs then reapply.
Liberal application is the way to go. With Nubuck products cleaning
and reapplication of weatherproofing should be done after every 7-10 days of
wilderness use.
Sandals
Keep them clean and dry. "Muck Off" is an excellent detergent for
cleaning synthetic sandals.
Fabric and Suede/Leather boots:
Weather proofing should only be applied when the boots are clean and dry.
Nikwax For Fabric And Leather provides excellent water resistance, and
any silicone based spray will work as well. If using a spray, don't be
shy. A good liberal dousing is the way to go. This type of boot
will never be waterproof unless Gore-Tex lined: the advantage of composite
boots is that they are light, quick drying and very breathable. Weather
proofing on fabric and suede boots needs to be reapplied after about every
10-14 days of wear.
To increase the durability of your fabric and suede boots, seal the stitch
lines with either Freesole or Seam Grip. This will alter the look of the
boot but will add life by preventing sand and grit wearing at the stitching.
This should be done before any weather proofing is applied.
Got a problem?
Footwear returned for inspection or repair must be clean and dry otherwise we
cannot accept it under Occupational Health & Safety laws. Footwear
given to us in an unsatisfactory state will be assessed a cleaning charge.
Footwear returned for replacement or refund under our 10 day policy must be in
original condition and unmarked. Do not wear footwear that you are unsure
about on any surface other than carpet. If they're marked, they're yours.
Delamination
Delamination occurs when the boot upper and the outsole become separated.
Modern glues are very durable under a wide range of environmental
conditions, and are very rarely faulty. In many cases where boots have been
returned for delamination, the cause has been traced to careless use around
fires. If you have warmed your feet by a fire in a pair of boots and they
begin to delaminate, please don't bring them back for warranty inspection.
Other common causes of delamination which are not warrantable are:
The boots have been left wet for too long in which case the glue perishes.
The boots have been untreated for too long, and the leather has completely
dried out, losing all of its natural oils and shrinking away from the outsole.
Thank you for purchasing your footwear from Mainpeak. We hope this
information helps you to get the most out of your new boots shoes or
sandals. If you have any questions about the proper care of your
footwear, please ask one of our staff.
Some extra pointers?..
DON'T
Don't let your boots dry out because as the leather
dries it will tighten and dry to pull away from the sole.
Don't heat or dry your boots in an oven, or to close to the fire. If the
leather is too hot to touch it will be greatly weakened. If the sole is
too hot to touch the glue holding it on may break down.
DO
Do clean the inside of your boots with a mild pH soap once or twice a year.
This will protect the leather from damaging salt build up, and also make
you more popular at the end of the day around the camp.
Blisters or bliss, that is the question.
The best way to deal with blisters is to avoid them by taking the following
precautions.
Feet
Heels tend to get blisters walking uphill, toes get 'em coming down again
('hammer toe'). You must have clean feet. Any grain of sand, piece of
bark or other tiny bit of detritis will act as a locus for the friction that
causes blisters. If you suspect you're susceptible to heel blisters, you
should tape your heels before you start with something like the wide Leukoplast
tape. Be careful though, wrinkles and creases in any tape will also cause
blisters (cut darts toward the centre, and overlap edges to avoid gathering).
Socks
Make sure your socks are clean too, and if necessary, de-pill them
before putting them on. Ensure your socks are the right size for your
foot, or they'll wrinkle and bunch up. Whether you wear one pair or two
is simply a matter of personal preference, but make sure you buy your boots
while wearing your intended sock combination, or try them on with a range of
combinations to find the best fit. Always keep a sacred spare pair in
your pack. This pair is to be worn at night in your sleeping bag only to
give you psychological comfort, while letting your damp feet dry out. Put
your wrung out day/walking socks in the bag with you too so they'll dry as
well.
Boots
Wearing in boots is a chapter in itself, but suffice to say, don't go for an
extended walk in a brand new pair of sturdy walking boots!
The cure
As soon as you feel yourself getting a 'hot spot' on your feet, stop and do
something about it. Don't put it off. A 20 minute stop at 'hot spot'
stage could save you and your companions hours later on.
There are several good blister kits available commercially, like the Spenco
Blister Kit. The fundamental idea behind all like products is to remove
friction from the affected area by providing a raised flat ring around it.
Should you find yourself without a dedicated blister kit, all is not
lost. Cut a 2-4mm thick shim from an EVA foam sleeping mat, and hollow
out an area just greater than the sore spot/blister, taping it over the region.
Change dressings daily to allow the blistered area to dry out (especially
overnight), and maintain an aseptic wound.
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